A Sailor's Dream - The Atlantic, Conquered

The Marcoses 2025 Provinces Series - Newfoundland and Labrador (Aug 23-28)

Our tour of the Maritimes took place a year ago, at the height of summer. We dropped anchor in Nova Scotia, Prince Edward Island, and New Brunswick, saving Newfoundland for a sailor’s dream. Time wasn’t on our side, so we decided to leave the best for last. We enjoyed our Maritimes voyage so much that we planned to complete our tour of Atlantic Canada the following summer, with Newfoundland and Labrador as our conclusive destination.

 

And finally, it did. On the last stretch of summer of 2025, we raised anchor and sailed to Newfoundland. It was a voyage of dreams, deeply anchored to the waters of the Atlantic. 
Our seafaring souls would never forget the place where we last held our breath at the beauty of the horizon. We found our hearts ready for an epic Atlantic Canada tour.

Day 1 NFL - freezing St. John's downtown stroll

We found ourselves deprived of sun and shine, and we thought we could see the rays blazing over Atlantic skies. What awaited us was tempest wind, so frigid and strong, unwanted most especially on summer’s last. We clothed not with warmth; we packed all light and airy, and we found ourselves in the middle of an epic Canadian weather mood swing. Despite being chilled, we made our best effort to walk the walk and enjoy what’s best in these parts of the Atlantic. We are determined that no tempest of weather would dampen our raging soul that hungers for adventures long held!

Day 2 NFL - Signal Hill, Cabot Tower, Quidi Vidi Village, Jellybean row, and lobsters for dinner at St. John’s Fish Exchange

With Newfoundland, and St. John’s in particular, as the grand finale of our Atlantic Canada tour, I planned meticulously before hoisting the sails. Our week was laid out in plain sight, ensuring that, whatever the weather, we would reach the places we had long dreamed of visiting. The cold didn't stop us from sticking to our itinerary. We are determined to make the most of our time in St. John's. Our first big adventure is towards Signal Hill and Cabot Tower. What awaits us is rewarding despite aching knees and cold ears. These landmarks are a worthy beacon of history.

From the top, we are greeted by wide views of the Atlantic Ocean and the colorful houses of the city below. The strong wind reminds us how powerful, unpredictable, and wild this place can be. Standing there, we feel small but grateful. We felt even more that this trip is purposeful than any we had, knowing we are walking where explorers, soldiers, and inventors once stood. Even in the cold, the beauty and history make every step worth it.

Signal Hill and Cabot Tower

Co-written by ChatGPT: Signal Hill is a famous hill in St. John’s, Newfoundland. It looks over the ocean and the city. People go there for beautiful views, fresh air, and to learn about history.

Co-written by ChatGPT: Cabot Tower is a stone tower on top of Signal Hill. It was built to remember John Cabot’s voyage and to celebrate Queen Victoria’s Diamond Jubilee. It’s also known as the place where the first transatlantic wireless message was received. Today, visitors go inside and enjoy the amazing views from the top.

This was no easy walk. The air felt heavy, and with every breath our lungs seemed to freeze. The wind battered us from all sides—it did not whisper; it screamed, loud and proud. Still, we pushed on, climbing over every stone and hill, gripping every bush that strayed into our path. We knew the painful climb would earn us a reward beyond imagination.

We pressed forward, steadying ourselves on trembling knees, fighting for breath. At last, what greeted us was the vast Atlantic Ocean in all its glory, complemented by proud mountains, sweeping greens, and tiny, colorful specks of houses scattered below. The climb was worth it, one we would gladly do again.

Quidi Vidi Village and Jellybean Row

Quidi Vidi is a small, colorful fishing village near downtown St. John’s. It has bright houses, old boats, and a quiet harbor. The village feels peaceful and cozy, and it shows what life by the sea has been like for many years. People visit to enjoy the views, take photos, and learn about local fishing culture. As for me, it was a trip of childhood long gone, but not quite forgotten and forever kept in my hearts of heart.

Quidi Vidi Village is a lovely surprise, one that stays with me even in memory. Of all the places we visit, this one feels closest to home. I come from a family of fishermen, and my hometown is where the waves break along the shore. The wind I breathe carries the scent of salt and sun-dried air.

Though the village is tiny, it is mighty in beauty. We relished our time there, a perfect rest after the colossal effort of climbing the hills and towers. We savored fresh fried scallops, lobster sandwiches, pints of beer, and the sound of pirate blues in the air.

Jelly Bean Row is as bright and colorful as its name suggests. These row houses spill across the city’s hilly streets, making it one of St. John’s most photographed spots, and a place I had high on my list. Unfortunately, it didn’t quite match the photos I’d seen online. Still, the walk was cheerful and uplifting, a little stroll that makes you feel young at heart.

You can’t miss this spot—it catches the eye of anyone passing by. These houses are a celebration of seaside living, an inspiration that proves even the bluest of blues can be full of life and color. After a quick photo session, we strolled down the same street to visit the shops, picking up our travel must-haves: souvenirs, chocolates, and a couple of anime figures too! Yes, anime, St. John's is not just seaside cozy, they're shounen, shoujo, and maybe tsundere too!

The Fish Exchange

Our big adventure on our second day in St. John’s brought us to a table at The Fish Exchange, where we feasted on lobster, seafood pasta, mussels, and a glass of wine. It was the perfect way to cap off a day of exploring, full of color, flavor, and the vibrant spirit of the city.

A reservation is a must, not an option, when planning to dine at the Fish Exchange. This place is as popular as the Jelly Bean Row houses: packed, pricey, polished, and exactly what you’d expect from a no-holds-barred seaside vacation.

Day 3 NFL - Cape Spear, Petty Harbour, Herbie’s craft and dinner at Chafe’s Landing - our first time trying Moose Meat

Our second day in St. John’s was nothing short of magical. We were treated to the breathtaking wonders of nature, landscapes so exquisite it felt as if only the hands of God could have painted them with such mastery. The biting cold, heightened by the endless uphill and downhill treks, was quickly forgotten as we soaked in the beauty around us. But our adventure hunger was far from satisfied. Fueled by curiosity and excitement, our little family resolved to journey to the easternmost point of North America, eager to witness the edge where the land meets the vast Atlantic in all its untamed glory.

Cape Spear - the most easterly point in North America.

Co-written by ChatGPT: Cape Spear, located just outside St. John’s, Newfoundland, is the easternmost point of both the province and all of North America. It’s a place where the raw power of the Atlantic Ocean meets rugged cliffs, creating a dramatic and unforgettable landscape. The cape is famous for its historic lighthouse, the oldest surviving one in Newfoundland, which has been guiding ships safely through stormy waters since 1836.

Our adventure to Cape Spear took half a day, just what you’d expect when heading to the easternmost point of Canada. At first, we imagined roads less traveled, untamed paths, and wildlife racing along the highway. We pressed on nonetheless; adventure, after all, is why we came.

In reality, the drive was smooth, no charging moose, no startled birds, no wild bushes brushing the roadside. The road was well-kept and perfect for a long, scenic journey. But upon reaching Cape Spear, we were met by the rawness of nature: rugged cliffs and a lighthouse that has watched over generations.

This trip was a powerful moment, a reminder that time is ancient, history runs deep, and the world belongs to those who take the time to truly see it. The Cape Spear Lighthouse is a memory meant to be shared; it endurably waits for anyone willing to make it.

We wouldn’t leave without taking a mini tour of the nearby town, and we’re so glad we did. I would have deeply regretted missing one of the oldest craft shops, which continues to offer beautiful collectible pieces to travelers who wander far and even farther. Our restless feet took us to Petty Harbour and Herbie's Craft, two places visited serendipitously. The things, and memories, I brought home from this mini side trip are held in high regard, for those pieces seemed to have found their way to me in unexpected and unintentional ways.

Petty Harbour and Herbie Craft and Dinner at Chafe's Landing.

Petty Harbour

From Google: Petty Harbour-Maddox Cove is a picturesque, historic fishing village on the eastern shore of Newfoundland's Avalon Peninsula, just south of St. John's. Known for its vibrant, traditional atmosphere, the town of roughly 950 people features steep hills, colourful houses, and a working harbor focused on sustainable fishing. 

Petty Harbour is the polished and manicured version of Quidi Vidi Village. The colourful fishing houses are neatly organized along the harbour, and a huge mountain envelops the village, adding to its unyielding charm. A little fun element to the place is the mini aquarium, an interactive place where both young and adult visitors can enjoy.

Herbie Craft

Tucked just outside the harbour, only a few steps away, sits a 71-year-old craft shop. From afar, you wouldn’t suspect that the whitewashed house holds treasures found nowhere else. Its signs have faded with time, yet the shop needs no advertisement; every path seems to lead here, as if calling sailors to its doors to share stories old and new. These tales inspire the art within, making each piece unique, a true keepsake of maritime life.

Herbie Craft offers handcrafted goods that capture the essence of everyday life, culture, and celebrations in Newfoundland, turning them into unique works of art. From charming woolens featuring tiny animals, mittens, bonnets, and shawls, to kitchen towels, pottery, jewelry, and acrylic glass pieces, this shop is a haven of artistry and tradition, one you’ll be proud to bring home.

Chafes Landing

From Google: Chafe's Landing is a popular, family-owned restaurant in Petty Harbour, Newfoundland, renowned for serving some of the best, fresh, locally sourced seafood, particularly its cod and chips. Housed in a restored 1878 home, it offers a casual atmosphere with indoor and, in warmer weather, outdoor seating on a deck.

We had dinner at Chafe’s Landing with sky-high expectations, eagerly anticipating fresh, juicy lobster and a seafood feast. Instead, we were met with a menu full of fried fish dishes. Needless to say, we were disappointed, downhearted, unsatisfied, and honestly a little sad lol. That said, the meal was decent enough, just nothing to write home about. We also tried for the first time moose meat sausage, which in itself is a consolation. We made up for our dashed expectations with a chocolate-strawberry sundae by the harbour instead.

Our third day in Newfoundland was redeemed by a mouthful of sundae, though the disappointing dinner didn’t completely spoil the fun. We’re determined to make our fourth day unforgettable. With more places to explore, local foods to try, and unique souvenirs still to discover, the adventure is far from over!

Day 4 NFL: Red Ochre Gallery packing up a Charapova oil on Canvas, Terry Fox Memorial, Livre’s antique, Anime merch at Avalon Mall, a comic store along the street, and dinner at RJ Pinoy

Our fourth day in St. John’s was dedicated entirely to St. John’s itself. After taking a break from hiking, we set out for a proper downtown stroll. On our first day, our brief city wander while hunting for food had only scratched the surface. This time, our goal was to really get to know the city. With our time in this beautiful province drawing to a close, we weren’t going to leave without retracing the steps every local takes. We may have been several steps behind them, but we had the whole day to explore St. John’s as thoroughly as we could.

Livre's antique and comic store across the street

This was a “mama and papa” tour, Biw chose to stay cozy at the hotel. The weather hadn’t improved a bit since our arrival. The rain was relentless yet indecisive: pouring heavily one moment, then stepping aside to tease us with sunlight the next. It was unpredictable, but we didn’t let it stop us lol. We braved the elements, hoping our luck could outmatch the mood swings of Canadian weather.

Our first stop was an antique shop, with a surprise comic store right across the street. Along the way, we also spotted the oldest store in downtown St. John’s.

Livre’s Antiques had the largest collection of Wedgwood pieces I’ve ever seen. I couldn’t buy everything I wanted, not because of money, as their prices were surprisingly reasonable compared to other thrift shops, but because we simply didn’t have the extra baggage space. I did, however, get my hands on two of those beautiful blue Wedgwood pieces.

A short walk from the antique shop brought us to the comic shop. I called it a surprise because I didn’t expect to find one in St. John’s. The province didn’t seem like the type of place for it, it’s cozy, seaside, and quaint, but I was wrong. St. John’s is shounen, shoujo, and tsundere too!

Red Ochre Gallery and Terry Fox Memorial

Collecting original canvas art has become a new mission for us whenever we travel. We used to stick to handcrafted items, shot glasses, fridge magnets, and occasionally a Christmas decoration. But after getting more acquainted with paints and art, we made it a goal to bring home original pieces from our travel destinations. Our first was from Ghana, the next from Jamaica, and now the third had to be from St. John’s, hand-painted by a local artist.

Visiting a gallery wasn’t originally on the agenda, but we couldn’t find street art or local artists displaying canvas on the streets. So, we accepted a small setback and invested in one ultimate piece from a gallery. The price was steep, but the artwork was priceless. I was completely blown away by this original oil on canvas by Natalia Chaparova. Now it hangs proudly on our wall at home.

Our luck had held so far: we had walked far, collected many treasures, grabbed bites along the way, and even dodged the rain. That is, until we made the long trek to the garden where the Terry Fox memorial monument stands. There, the rain poured down its hardest. Wet and cold, we survived the walk, but it felt fitting, a small tribute to one of Canada’s youngest heroes, Terry Fox.

Avalon Mall and RJ Pinoy

A visit to the mall, and snapping a photo of the local public buses is a personal travel mantra of mine lol. After our soggy trek to the Terry Fox memorial and hauling all our souvenir shopping back to the hotel, we unpacked and freshened up before heading out to the mall and a Filipino restaurant in St. John’s. Biw, however, strongly insisted on staying put, she clearly needed some floof time as her biwday ( a day within our travels dedicated only for Biw).

Avalon Mall felt just like any other mall, but I managed to score some precious anime collectibles, namely Takasugi, Kafka and Reno at the game stop. Once again, I was reminded that quaint and cozy can also be shounen, shoujo, and tsundere!

After our mall tour, we were famished and eager to fill our tummies with Filipino goodness. RJ Oinoy did not disappoint! This meal perfectly capped off our fourth day in Newfoundland.

NFL Day 5: Bell Island, Jeannie’s treasure, Kanto Games, Mary Browns and Greco pizza.

Our low-key downtown adventure was thoroughly enjoyed despite the wind and rain. On our conclusive fifth day in Newfoundland, we were inspired to venture beyond the city to Bell Island, a historic site of wartime significance. This is once again a "mama and papa" tour; Biw has firmly re-established floofing.

From Google: Bell Island is a historic, 9-km long island in Conception Bay, Newfoundland, known for its dramatic cliffs, former iron-ore mines, and wartime significance. Located near St. John's, it features the town of Wabana, rugged coastal scenery, and mining tours, offering a mix of industrial history, coastal walking trails, and ocean views. 

Reaching Bell Island through Portugal Cove is an adventure on its own. After just over an hour’s drive, we boarded a ferry bound for the island. We were welcomed by breathtaking rugged cliffs, showcasing some of the most extraordinary natural formations. A solitary lighthouse stood through time, inviting visitors to step inside and uncover the stories it preserves.

Jeannie's Treasure

This is where Lady Serendipity stepped in. I am an avid collector of travel pieces, big and small, often drawn to antiquated, dusty items tucked away on top shelves—those no one else bothers to notice. I believe hidden pieces are treasures, meant only for those who truly look.

By chance, that belief led me to a colorful, unassuming cottage—a yellow house with a simple sign that read Jeannie's Treasure. Not easy to miss and impossible to ignore once seen. We pulled over, and lo and behold, it was a treasure cove of some of Newfoundland’s finest souvenir pieces.

Kanto Games, Mary Brown's Chicken and Greco Pizza

These local spots are truly homegrown and absolute must-visits. Newfoundland has officially cemented its place in my shounen, shoujo, and tsundere heart thanks to dedicated hobby stores like Kanto Games. Their collection is seriously impressive, featuring anime collectibles, Pokémon trading cards, and even rare and signed pieces — including the international Ichiban Kuji versions known as Ichibanso figures. Prices are reasonable too, making it a must-stop for any otaku traveling through the province.

Mary Brown’s Chicken may be a dime a dozen in Toronto, but nothing compares to sinking your teeth into their oily, crispy, juicy fried chicken at its birthplace — Newfoundland. Not that it tastes wildly different, but there’s something special about knowing each bite carries a story of humble beginnings and nationwide conquest in the great fried-chicken wars.

Greco Pizza is another proud Newfoundland original. While it hasn’t reached the same franchising success as Mary Brown’s (yet, I’m rooting for them!), their pizzas are massive, delicious, and perfect for a well-earned treat after a long day of adventuring.

The sun finally shone on our last day in Newfoundland, as if begging us to stay a little longer. Though our hearts ached to say goodbye to this beautiful province, our eyes were already set beyond the horizon. We longed for home, carrying with us a vast plunder of treasures and unforgettable memories.

After a year, Atlantic Canada has been conquered. Our maritime journey has come to an end. We first dropped anchor in the waters of Nova Scotia, then cruised onward to Prince Edward Island and New Brunswick, and a year later, to the shores of Newfoundland, where we finally raised anchor, ready to sail home.

Canada and its provinces are truly a traveller’s dream, from the mighty Rockies to the windswept Atlantic, and across the endless golden prairies, this vast land never fails to surprise. Each horizon reveals a new wonder, each port a new story, each mile a reminder of Canada’s rugged and breathtaking beauty.

We are grateful beyond measure to have sailed through these landscapes, to have seen with our own eyes what the internet and social media could only promise. Yet still, the call of the open road and open sea, beckons us onward. We long to voyage farther, to gather more tales, and to stow away more memories from the many harbors this great country has to offer.

For now, I lower my pen as a sailor lowers their flag, closing this logbook with a sailor’s song and a sailor’s banquet, a celebration of a voyage well sailed and a dream well guarded. The Marcoses will always keep an eagle eye on the horizon, onward and forward towards the open sky!

*MBGXSt.John's*  *TheMarcosesXNewFoundland*  *2&1/2GypsiesXCanada*